The road to Punakha winds up from Simtokha Dzong into pine forest and passes by farm houses and villages for 20km. Dochula Pass, at an altitude of 10,500 ft, is just 45-minute drive from Thimphu. On a clear day, the pass offers visitors a panoramic view of the Eastern Himalayan range. The road continues down the to the relative lowlands of the Punakha valley. Punakha Dzong dominates the valley floor. Before Thimphu was made the capital of Bhutan, Punakha held the title of Winter Capital because of its temperate climate. Today, the old custom of moving from Thimphu to Punakha and back is still followed by the Je Khenpo (Head of Bhutan's religious order) and the monk body. If your visit coincides with the monk's migration, you might be able to watch the ceremonial procession from Punakha to Thimphu.

Punakha Dzong was strategically built at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (Male River) and the Mo Chhu (Female River) by the first Shabdrung of Bhutan, Ngawang Namgyal, in 1637. The dzong has been destroyed by four fires and an earthquake in 1807, and has been frequently devastated by flood water coming from the great northern glaciers. The dzong has now been fully restored to its original splendour. In 1993, the largest thongdrel, a religious embroidery composed entirely of applique on silk brocade, that has ever been created was dedicated to the dzong and the people of Punakha by His Majesty King Jigme Singye Wangchuck and the Je Khenpo at a three-day consecration ceremony.

Trongsa

Trongsa, a four-hour drive from Wangdue Phodrang, offers a welcome rest to travellers. Like almost all towns in Bhutan, the dzong, dominates the valley, dwarfing the surrounding buildings. About 5 miles before Trongsa, the road winds around a cliff and takes a sharp turn to the left. The view is one of the most beautiful sights, and one of which you will never tire. Sited on the contour of a ridge stands the multi-level Trongsa Dzong, built in 1648. It is at least another 20 minutes drive from the first look-out of the town and dzong before you arrive in Trongsa proper. Trongsa is the ancestral home of the Royal Family and the dzong acted as a defensive fortress to attacking armies. The Crown Prince of Bhutan traditionally becomes the Penlop or Governor of Trongsa before being crowned King.

Trongsa Dzong is impregnable. The dzong itself is a labyrinth of temples, corridors and offices holding court over the local community. It is built on many levels into the sides of the hill, and can be seen from every approach to Trongsa heralding its strength as a defensive stronghold. Ta Dzong, or the watchtower, which once guarded the dzong from internal rebellion, stands impressively above the dzong and provides the visitor with more insight into historial significance of Trongsa in Bhutan's history.

Trongsa is one of the quaintest of all Bhutanese towns. The town's vista is traditional in appearance, with wooden slatted houses lined up together on the side of the hill. The local population weaves its own textiles from hand-dyed wool. Trongsa is a good shopping stop on your journey to the east of the country.

Bumthang
The Yutongla Pass and a series of hair-raising bends at an altitude of 11,500 feet separate the valleys of Trongsa and Bumthang. Views of Trongsa valley on the ascent are superb. Comprised of 4 smaller valleys, the deeply spiritual region of Bumthang is shrouded in a religious legend. Jakar is the centre, containing the dzong area and the town. Apart from Jakar Dzong, a number of smaller monasteries can be found throughout the hills. Tales of Guru Padmasambhava dominate these holy shrines. The valley is home to the sacred Jambay and Kurjey Lhakhangs. At the Kurjey, bodily marks of Guru Rinpoche are impressed upon a rock. Bumthang valley is host to spectaular religious festivals in October and November. Bumthang is also the traditional home of the great Buddhist teacher Pema Lingpa to whose descendants the present dynasty traces its ancestry.

The town of Jakar is the largest between Thimphu in the west and Trashigang in the east. Jakar is famous for its honey production, cheese, apples and apricots. Visitors to Jakar should plan to spend a few days taking advantage of the valley's relatively gentle slopes to hike to nearby medieval temples (the valleys are filled with history) and glimpse Bhutan's rural population.

Ura, the last valley in central Bhutan, falls within the Bumthang district. Wide-open spaces characterise the valley that sits in the shadow of Thrumsingla Pass, which separates the East from the West of Bhutan. Ura Village and its dzong are a charming stop before the climb to the East. Cobbled streets and a medieval feel give Ura an unusual and attractive atmosphere. The old women of Ura still wear sheepskin shawls on their backs, which double as both a blanket in the nighttime and a cushion during the daylight hours.

Eastern Bhutan

The drive across the Thrumsingla Pass and the subsequent descent from high altitude pine forest to lush pastures and orchards is an interesting drive. Gushing waterfalls, steep cliffs with steeper drops, blazing flowers and constantly changing vegetation combine to make the journey as varied as it is beautiful. If the weather is clear, the high eastern mountain range comes into view from the top of the pass and views of misty mountains across many peaks can be seen. Certainly the most spectacular drive in Bhutan is the 20 km of road between Sengor and Namning on the eastern side of the Thrumsingla Pass. Sheer drops of a thousand metres, huge cascading waterfalls, endless turns and frequently fog from a rise in temperature make for unnerving but exhilarating travel.